Friday 29 March 2013

Day 37

Me again

 Here we are sitting on the dock of the bay waiting for our boat, having just missed the 10 am one that left at 11 am. We watched it sail away. We got through customs remarkably quickly, only half an hour, but its rather disconcerting that we are the only vehicules waiting. I see no ships!

Last night we all got together for tagines and sat round the braziers in our jallebes. A fitting end to our Morroccan trip.

Thursday 28 March 2013

Up to day 35

Rossy again

We managed to find the coast road to Souira Kedima which was a reasonable road due to the llack of traffic where the main form of transport seems to be donkey and cart. We made many stops to take photos of donkeys pulling ploughs,  donkeys carring heavy loads, camels sheep and long stretches of fields running down to the sea. Souira is a purpose built holiday resort which out of season is left to the high winds and weather and looks neglected. The long prom was covered in sand dunes but the parking end, run by a French man was cleared. We stopped for lunch but ended up staying overnight as the sun was out and we enjoyed our first  boozy lunch and dozey afternoon.

Next day we continued on the coast road to Oualidia- a place I was keen to visit- admiring the views of the Atlantic hitting the coast, lots of cultivation right down to the sea's edge. Oualidia has an air of chic French holiday style and the view of the lagoon as you drive down the hill is stunning. Sue and Jon arrived in the pm and at night we ate at e restaurant recommended by the reception man from Marrakech.  We chose the menu which was vague, but we ended up with soup, salad, a platter of sea urchins and oysters, a platter of fried fish and calamari , a huge spider crab, a platter of large fish from the lagoon and then creme caramel and strawberry tart! We were totally stuffed and fished out. We think it was because we' d had it recommended. Fantastic value at less than £12 pp.

Our next destination was up the coast again to Mohammedia where we met up with Sue and Jon again. We ate in as too cold to stay out. We feel to be on the homeward stretch as the weather is getting worse the further north we go.

Next we were aiming for Kenitra but the sight was crowded and scruffy, though it did have a new swimming pool in the middle so perhaps  it might improve. We travelled on instead to Moulay Bousselham which is by a lagoon known for flamingoes  though I haven't seen any yet. We have been hitting the motorways recently which is a great relief after the potholed roads around many towns. It has certainly been a testing holiday for our vans. Our sight is attractive but the weather is poor with heavy showers. We are just going to investigate the town as it seems to be brightening.....

Wednesday 20 March 2013

Up to day 28

Rossy here again.

We were glad to leave the desert and we drove ontoTinerhir Camping Le Soleil but by the time we got there the sun had gone for the day and the pitches were shady. We stayed a couple of days to investigate the Todra Gorge which was impressive but very windy. We also had an adventure in the palmeria getting lost among the local's allotments.

Our next stop was Ouarzazte- pronounced like Tommy Cooper- wazazat!(with the hand action too) a more interesting drive with villages, towns and kasbars. Pete developed a prob with his power steering and just made it to the campsite which was more like a car park. This is an area used in lots of films and so there are film studios and museums etc to tour. Also there is a kasbar and Berber town that we went round with a guide-all very interesting. Our guide took us places we would ever have dared to go. The buildings are made of pise-mud and stones from the river and straw and many are crumbling because if not maintained the rain on the rooves washes them away.

Some of us took a 4x4 to Ait Benhaddon across country to another kasbar which has been used as a film location many times. Another site to remember. At night we ate out at a more up market restaurant but the menu was much the same as ever- salads, tagines and couscous. We wonder what else the locals eat though we have seen things in the markets that we don't fancy trying.

Day25
We took the tortuously windy road over the High Atlas Mountains to well over 2000 mts-fortunately there were few mad wagon drivers. Pete still having a pro with his steering which didn't help. The camp site is very pretty with lots of flowers, good facilities and a beautiful pool.

We have been into Marakesh a couple of times so far. We explored the main square and the souqs where you can get lost and never be seen again. In the early evening they put up huge wrought iron stall and barbecues  all over the square but what a hassle to eat there unless you make your decision quickly. It is an experience not to be missed though. Also sitting on a balcony watching it all happen. We have done some of the cultural stuff- gardens, a palace, tombs and the Jewish quarter ( inadvertently ) mainly on foot. We were given very odd directions along the way- through shops, down narrow alleys and through a Hamman massage parlour. You wouldn't get this on a Thompson's tour.

The weather has been better recently so today we have had a chill day. I've done the washing and Gary has had his hair cut and we've lazed by the pool in the sun. This is the life.

Tuesday 12 March 2013

Up to day 20

No one seemed to like Fez very much probably due to wind, rain and cold. We went into Fez with S and J with difficulty but eventually ended up at the medina which was endless-loads of little shops selling everything. We had a tour of a tannery which was an eye opener and had lunch in a Riad.

Day15 travelled south-everyone desperate for some sun-amazing views, snow topped mountains, barbarise apes, changing scenery to barren areas, Ifrane, where the king comes from-very European looking, still going from very poor to obviously wealthy. Went through middle Atlas over 2000mts to Medelt where we sat in the sun for 1 hour-1st time I've had my shorts on but soon back in jeans and jumpers.

Day 16 Dramatic barren views as we journeyed on to Source Bleue de Meski, an oasis. Beautiful and sunny so all sat out and even had a barbecue and the locals came to entertain us with their drms. We bought a jellaba each to keep warm.

Day 17  Drove down to the desert. You could see the dunes, rosey pink as you drove towards them as the land was very flat and barren. We passed lots of kasbars en route and then turned left across the plain-rough piste-where we crawled along to the edge of the dunes. Not quite "Ice Cold In Alex" but Ray's exhaust dropped off and Dave backed into a sand dune and broke his bumper

We had 2 days in the desert. We watched the sunset from the top of a dune which was fabulous the star gazed with bins, telescope and aps. Next evening some of us went on a camel track to see the sunset which was a great experience and we were only 5 miles from the Algerian border.

day 19 got up to blue skies and sunshine. 40 Dutch bikers arrived at the hotel the night before and we watched them lining up for a photo shoot on a dune behind our vans. We were on the opposite dune taking photos and laughing about how they looked as if they would set off and try to jump over our vans when, would you believe it, one of them did just that and crashed into the back of Steves van. Jon ran up the dune to stop the rest of them. They could see the tops of our vans from their dune so no one can understand what possessed her. The girl was badly injured and taken away in an ambulance and a lot of damage to S's van, bikes and locker but the men managed to make it road worthy. It brought a whole new meaning to the phrase "a Flying Dutchman".

We eventually got on the road to Tinerhir camping Le Soleil just as the sun had gone for the day. We passed what looked like slag beeps all the way but Ray says they are pillow lava- not very attractive.

Wednesday 6 March 2013

Up to day14

Rossy here

There is a saying in Africa: if a thing is worth doing its worth doing slowly - and so it would seem.

We got a really good deal on our ferry crossing but it was a good 2 hours late setting off and then when we reached Tanga Med we spent another 3 hours getting through customs! We were the lucky ones as some locals had to unpack all their belongings. Anyway our drivr through the mountains as the sun was setting was beautiful and the coast road to Martil, our 1 st stop, was surprisingly modern with lovely lighting along the long proms. At the camp site we met up with Sue and Jn who had been waiting all day for us. Eventually we all got to the restaurant  where we could take our own booze so that was a plus.

Next day , wagons ho, off we set in convoy to Chefchaoen on crumbling, dicey roads and the following day we went into the old town 2k down hill.the sun was out and the medina was fascinating -lots of little shops,fish , meat, fruit and veg markets all crowded together. We had lunch,the usual tagines, on  an upper terrace and the views over the the blue washed houses and the mosque and mountains was magical (as my sister would say) It was a steep walk back upto the site where we all gathered for drinks but as soon as the sun goes it drops in very cold.

Day12 it was raining on and off all day and we travelled on to Ouezzane with an eventful start as Ray inadvertently tried to take us all back into the medina round a hair pin bend and through the middle of town- not to be recommended!

We drove past miles of agricultural land with masses of broad bean plants etc. what do they do with them? You pass an odd person herding 2 or3 goats,sheep or cows letting them feedon the grass verges, people just watching the world go by or walking and you wonder where to or where from? Donkeys are the main form of transport out of town so they are everywhere. And this is the land of gnomes  as most men wear Jalabas - long garb and pointy hoods

We caught a "taxi" into Ouezzane . It was the most dilapidated  transit van with bench seats full of locals so standing room only for some of us.the one coming back was even worse as the back door was held closed with a piece of string and it took the driver all his time to get out of 1st gear .

Day13 drove to Volubilis to see ancient Romes furthest outpost-beautiful Roman remains and mosaics . After lunch travelled onto  Fez arriving in a rain storm.

Up to day14

Rossy here

There is a saying in Africa: if a thing is worth doing its worth doing slowly - and so it would seem.

We got a really good deal on our ferry crossing but it was a good 2 hours late setting off and then when we reached Tanga Med we spent another 3 hours getting through customs! We were the lucky ones as some locals had to unpack all their belongings. Anyway our drivr through the mountains as the sun was setting was beautiful and the coast road to Martil, our 1 st stop, was surprisingly modern with lovely lighting along the long proms. At the camp site we met up with Sue and Jn who had been waiting all day for us. Eventually we all got to the restaurant  where we could take our own booze so that was a plus.

Next day , wagons ho, off we set in convoy to Chefchaoen on crumbling, dicey roads and the following day we went into the old town 2k down hill.the sun was out and the medina was fascinating -lots of little shops,fish , meat, fruit and veg markets all crowded together. We had lunch,the usual tagines, on  an upper terrace and the views over the the blue washed houses and the mosque and mountains was magical (as my sister would say) It was a steep walk back upto the site where we all gathered for drinks but as soon as the sun goes it drops in very cold.

Day12 it was raining on and off all day and we travelled on to Ouezzane with an eventful start as Ray inadvertently tried to take us all back into the medina round a hair pin bend and through the middle of town- not to be recommended!

We drove past miles of agricultural land with masses of broad bean plants etc. what do they do with them? You pass an odd person herding 2 or3 goats,sheep or cows letting them feedon the grass verges, people just watching the world go by or walking and you wonder where to or where from? Donkeys are the main form of transport out of town so they are everywhere. And this is the land of gnomes  as most men wear Jalabas - long garb and pointy hoods

We caught a "taxi" into Ouezzane . It was the most dilapidated  transit van with bench seats full of locals so standing room only for some of us.the one coming back was even worse as the back door was held closed with a piece of string and it took the driver all his time to get out of 1st gear .

Day13 drove to Volubilis to see ancient Romes furthest outpost-beautiful Roman remains and mosaics . After lunch travelled onto  Fez arriving in a rain storm.

Up to day14

Rossy here

There is a saying in Africa: if a thing is worth doing its worth doing slowly - and so it would seem.

We got a really good deal on our ferry crossing but it was a good 2 hours late setting off and then when we reached Tanga Med we spent another 3 hours getting through customs! We were the lucky ones as some locals had to unpack all their belongings. Anyway our drivr through the mountains as the sun was setting was beautiful and the coast road to Martil, our 1 st stop, was surprisingly modern with lovely lighting along the long proms. At the camp site we met up with Sue and Jn who had been waiting all day for us. Eventually we all got to the restaurant  where we could take our own booze so that was a plus.

Next day , wagons ho, off we set in convoy to Chefchaoen on crumbling, dicey roads and the following day we went into the old town 2k down hill.the sun was out and the medina was fascinating -lots of little shops,fish , meat, fruit and veg markets all crowded together. We had lunch,the usual tagines, on  an upper terrace and the views over the the blue washed houses and the mosque and mountains was magical (as my sister would say) It was a steep walk back upto the site where we all gathered for drinks but as soon as the sun goes it drops in very cold.

Day12 it was raining on and off all day and we travelled on to Ouezzane with an eventful start as Ray inadvertently tried to take us all back into the medina round a hair pin bend and through the middle of town- not to be recommended!

We drove past miles of agricultural land with masses of broad bean plants etc. what do they do with them? You pass an odd person herding 2 or3 goats,sheep or cows letting them feedon the grass verges, people just watching the world go by or walking and you wonder where to or where from? Donkeys are the main form of transport out of town so they are everywhere. And this is the land of gnomes  as most men wear Jalabas - long garb and pointy hoods

We caught a "taxi" into Ouezzane . It was the most dilapidated  transit van with bench seats full of locals so standing room only for some of us.the one coming back was even worse as the back door was held closed with a piece of string and it took the driver all his time to get out of 1st gear .

Day13 drove to Volubilis to see ancient Romes furthest outpost-beautiful Roman remains and mosaics . After lunch travelled onto  Fez arriving in a rain storm.

Friday 1 March 2013

Day 4

Today we are topping up with afew bits from Waitrose , also LPG and met up with Ray and Ann, Steve, Hazel and Kim arrived eventually found a parking space near to ferry but not on the ferry dock we have to wait

Internet catch up

Still bitterly cold!

Drove into Portsmouth but couldn't stay on the dock till 10pm-ish so met up with Ray and Ann and Steve Hazel and Kim on a car park near by just in time to watch the Rugby - England v France and we won! After a lot of hanging around we drove to the docks to join the queue. Peter and Anette were in front and Kate and Dave brought up the rear so after brief "hello's" we went to bed.

Knocked up about 7am then started the slow process of boarding. The ship was modern and stylish but our room was tiny. My bed was in the roof! Hazel and Steve had a state room where we were in tied for our inaugural booze up/ get together which went very well with the added bonus of Rugby in the background, Scotland v Ireland and amazingly Scotland won!

A good trip over and finally all met up to follow R and A onward and upward. The snow topped hills which had looked very picturesque from the boat became hairy scary as the rain turned to sleet, snow and ice and all the traffic came into one lane and then to a halt. Police and snow ploughs kept us going and after many miles we began to decend to another world of blue skies and sunshine.

Our journey south has been fairly univentful other than Ray's sat nav taking us off the motorway when it fancies a change and losing each other occasionally. It had been getting warmer during the day but today we have driven to Tarifa where the wind has picked up to some tune. When I read up on it, the place is a wind surfer's paradise. We have never seen so many wind turbines!

Some of us walked into the town which has quite a Moroccan feel with many narrow twisting streets and Moroccan style menus.